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| Ibn Khaldun Statue in downtown Tunis |
Look around the cities and towns of Tunis and you will see the
footprints of many different civilizations. Carthage and Rome are the
best-known examples perhaps, but many other ethnic groups have come to
these shores as conquerors, as traders, as migrants and as refugees. For
most of the last 4,000 years, Tunisia has welcomed people from around
the Mediterranean basin, and Africa, who have brought their own
histories, cultures, languages and religions. Each has made their own
contribution to the richness and diversity of contemporary Tunisian
culture.
Two of these groups are the Andalusians and the Moors. Both these
people came as refugees from Spain during the middle ages and settled in
Tunisia over several centuries, bringing with them culture and
traditions that have become an important part of Tunisia’s cultural
heritage.
For many centuries much of the Iberian peninsula – modern-day Spain
and Portugal – was under the influence of Moorish culture and Islam. The
architectural masterpieces of the Alhambra palace-fortress in Granada
or La Mezquita in Cordoba, to cite just two examples, still stand as
testaments to the wealth and cultural sophistication of this society.
From the eleventh to the fifteenth centuries, however, the peninsula
gradually fell under the control of Christians in a process known as the
reconquista, which continued until 1492 when the last Moorish city,
Granada, fell to Christian Spain.
As a result of the reconquista, Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco received
two distinct waves of Muslim Spanish migration. The first group –
Andalusians – were Arabic-speaking Muslims who started to arrive in
1230. Often wealthy and educated, they had few difficulties integrating
with local populations in urban areas such as the medinas of Tunis and
Sousse. For example, the historian Ibn Khaldoun (1332-1406), born in
Tunis, was from an Andalusian background. He was the first to write
about the Amazigh in his book Almuqadima; the Introduction. Today, his
statue can be seen in downtown Tunis, opposite the cathedral and French
embassy.
The second group consisted of Moors. After Granada fell under the
control of the Christians kingdoms in 1492, Muslims were forced to
convert to Christianity and adopt the Spanish language and traditions.
Despite a ban on Islam, Muslims practiced their religion secretly until
their expulsion in 1609 to Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco.
This expulsion under Phillip III in 1609 marked one of the most
significant waves of Moorish immigrants to the country, and their
arrival made a large impact on Tunisian culture and popular memory. Some
of the wealthier Moors chose to settle in the north fringe of the
Medina of Tunis- Bab Souika, Bab Carthagene and Bab El-Khadhra. Many
farmers and poorer immigrants settled in several villages scattered
throughout the Medjerda Valley and in other parts of northern Tunisia.
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| Chechia Market Tunis photo 1900 |
In contrast to the experience of the Andalusians, the Moors had a
more difficult time integrating into Tunisian society. Arabic and Islam
had been banned for over a century in their Iberian homeland, and the
Moorish communities that settled in the countryside in particular, were
considered by the established communities to be culturally influenced by
Christianity. Moreover, these migrants were not only Muslims:
Spanish Jews were also expelled from Spain and joined the Tunisian
Jewish community that has existed here since the Diaspora, more than two
and a half millennia ago.
Moorish Heritage in Tunisia
When the Moors left Spain following the reconquista and settled in
North Africa, they brought with them their knowledge, culture and
aesthetic tastes. Together, the contribution of the Moorish and the
Andalusian in Tunisian culture can be seen in the daily life of the
Tunisians, particularly in domains such as cuisine, architecture and
clothing.
Testour, founded in 1609, is an authentic Moorish village located in
Northwestern Tunisia. The urban planning of the town follows Spanish
norms- with windows and doors opening onto the streets rather than inner
courtyards. The minaret of the city’s mosque is reminiscent of the
church bell-towers in Seville and Toledo. A square for bull fighting was
even erected before the blood-sport was banned by the local authorities
a few decades after the village was founded.
Today, the original layout of the village is still visible and the
minaret of the mosque can be seen from the GP5 road on the way to
Teboursouk and the archaeological site of Dougga.
The Medina of Tunis is one of the best witnesses of a Moorish
contribution to the artistic life of Tunis, not only in terms of
architecture but also culture and tradition.
The minarets of many of the mosques were designed by Moorish
architects as were a number of palaces and schools, including Bir
Lahjar. The colorful and eclectic ceramic wall tiles you can see
throughout the medina are also of Andalusian origin.
The chechia, a red felt hat, is another notable Moorish contribution.
Souk Chaouachine in the Medina houses the biggest felt-hat workshops.
The first waves of these communities who settled in the Medina of Tunis
installed the souk very close to the Zitouna Mosque in the heart of
Tunis, since the felt-hat is a symbol of wealth and nobility.
Furthermore, the Moorish and the Andalusian architectural influence
can be seen in the construction of bridges in Medjerda Valley. In Medjez
El-Bab, around 70km west of Tunis capital, a bridge can be seen from
the GP5. It was built in 1677, when the Ottoman rulers ordered a bridge
to be built on Medjerda valley to make the work of tax collectors
easier. The construction was supervised by Moors since they had
experience in such work.
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| Medjez el bab Bridge supervised by a Moorish engineer |
Ridha Mami is an expert on the Moorish Culture in Tunisia and in the
Mediterranean who teaches in Manouba University in Tunis and Madrid
University. He told Tunisia Live that the Moorish heritage can be
observed in several common family names of Tunisians including Morou
(Moor), Tlatli (from Toledo) and Qortbi (from Cordoba). Mami also
argued that one of the most significant contribution of the Moors to
Tunisian culture is in cuisine. The names of many dishes have Spanish
roots. Ojja for example is derived from olla the pot. Moreover, in
Soliman, some 40km south of Tunis, a typical pie is made from cheese and
parsley: Banadhej. This name has been derived from the Spanish term
empanada.
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| Testour Mosque: the minaret follows the model of Sevilleans chruch bell-towers |
In addition, Moorish heritage extends to the arts, and especially
especially music. The traditional music genre of Ma’luf has Andalusian
origins. In particular, two Tunisian musicians have left their touch on
this music, Habiba Msika (1903-1930) and Khmaies Tarnen(1894-1965), both
of whom came from Moorish families.